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E-mails to the editor

I received quite a number of e-mails which I hope are of general interest.

This refers to the article Tom wrote on his small block Moto Guzzi conversion


the company I suggested in my article no longer supply mandrel bends. I have found another though I have no first-hand experience of them but at least it is a start for those looking see



Hi David,

Thought I would send you some pics of my build to add to the website. Hopefully they will be of some use to fellow forum members, and maybe generate some "you got that bit wrong" messages to put me back on the right track if required.

I'm building a 2CV powered Brooklands. Nearly at a rolling chassis after about 6 months of on and off work. Next on the list of "jobs to do" is brake lines and gear box mounting. I'm told by Mike Meakin that my chassis has been updated by Phil at the rear to get around some rear light and rear mudguard mounting issues that affected earlier cars.

All the best

Stu Budd (Ratchet)

The pictures are available in the build pictures section of the website

Hi David,

Months ago I sent you pictures of "D" frames that would mount either side of the main body, to take both rear lamps and provide exhaust pipe support.

Those "D" frames are now installed, the lamps relocated and the wiring re-routed inside the body. As ever, it takes much more time and effort to amend something, than start with a "clean sheet". The complete "D" frame has a complementary, flat strip inside the body, spreading the load, with thin foam cushioning the frame against the panel. The frame is VERY robust.

Clearly the rear mudguards are much less stressed, having no pendulum weight at the far end - and the exhausts don't jiggle about on tickover (although they are actually completely free to move, but not up and down - they are only constrained by the spring over the original "gutter bracket"). I feel much more comfortable that if the single "gutter bracket" bolt fixing fails, the exhaust will still nestle in a cradle support, rather than clatter down on to the mudguard spat.

Several thousand miles in France should determine whether this was a good move, or not!

I see Phil has now extended the rear carrier to include a rear lamps bar, so my "conversion" may be superfluous. I guess that's why each Pembleton is "different"!



Another useful tip

Hi David,

Inspired by Robin's adventures with 2CV brake fitting kits, I thought that I'd provide the following.

A Tale of 2 Ping Fekkits

It should be noted that not all brake fitting kits are equal. The Citroen OEM kit is a far more considered and nicely put together collection of parts for a couple of reasons. Firstly the small round "hold down caps" have opposed holes drilled in them to aid assembly. The newly available ones have a smooth un-drilled surface. Secondly the springs that live beneath the caps and are compressed against the brake shoes are much softer and are ground flat at each end to make them sit nicely both against the shoes and inside the cap. Again the newly available ones are not nearly so well considered. The extremely smooth surface of the new caps coupled with the much heavier spring action serves to put these items firmly into the category of "ping fekkits"

The solution as discovered by Robin is as follows:

Punch two opposing dimples into the caps to aid traction when installing and use the older type springs.

I've adopted a similar approach, albeit mine involved a 2.5mm drill because my punch only has a tiny pointy end. It was a fairly simple procedure; punch a mark to keep the drill located and countersink a couple of dimples into the cap as per the photo.

I've placed the new and old items side by side to aid comparison. I was originally going to re-install the old ones, but I was sucked in by shiny.

All the best


This e-mail was triggered by my request to make a lid for the glove box on Quicksilver

Hi David,

The left hand side of my dash panel was bonded on to waterproof MDF, so I could carefully cut out my quadrant, glovebox lid - the jigsaw has a 3mm kerf so only a small gap. A piece of aluminium was bonded on to the inside and then a strip with a rolled edge (Duncan has the kit to make this up) screwed on to the aluminium/MDF sandwich edge to "cover the join". I found some aluminium piano strip hinge on Ebay which buffs up well; I used a quadrant desk-drawer lock (I have a spare, with a key, if you'd like it).

It involves a bit of fiddly work to ensure that the lid doesn't foul the aperture when opening/closing, but looks tidy, open or closed. We find it extremely useful, being able to lock away wallet/passports/camera in what is a cavernous glove box.



Yet another tip from Stuart.

A regular topic on the forum is "My throttle pedal doesn't fit" ... Mine didn't either. The solution, as is often the case, is heat and a big stick.

The pedal attaches to the rest of the pedal assembly by means of a threaded post. The post inserts into the threaded tube on the body of the pedal, and is then attached to the pedal assembly with a washer and a nut. Once installed the top of the pedal, where the cable attaches, will foul the top tube.

The solution is a dog leg in the pedal shaft produced by heat and careful bending to move the top of the shaft with the cable coupling inboard towards the gearbox. On my pedal the required horizontal displacement was only 8mm, but I guess this could well vary from car to car.

I've provided some before and after pictures to illustrate above, and although I'm sure most of us have already encountered and found a way around this particular problem, I hope this will be of some use to those early on in their builds.

All the best,


Hi David,

As part of my efforts to minimize the amount of engine motor oil expelled on to my Supersports chassis and into the atmosphere I recently exchanged the original 602 engine breather (remiflard) for the new one that ECAS is selling which they say is made in the UK and is smaller than the original. The ECAS model is really great piece of engineering and, to my mind, works better than the original.

There are those that think the original clutters up the visual effects of the front of a 2CV engine and so they go to great pains to relocate the breather to the firewall of their Pembleton where there is hardly room and must run a hose from the original location to the relocated breather. In addition, putting oil in the engine can only be done after first removing the bonnet.

Here are some pictures of the before and after to show that the ECAS breather, installed in the original location hardly disturbs the visual effects, avoids having to provide a hose to the relocated breather and still allows oil filling to be done without removing the bonnet. I still haven't devised a way the capture any residual oil from the vapors of the breather but, at this point, they are minimal so I can drive the car without too much of a mess.

I see that Der Franzose is also selling the same breather.

Bob Gilpatrick

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