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The Fun of Building a Pembleton

by

Paul Straatman

chassis painted silver

Of course I was eager to put all the bits and pieces together but I did not like the black color of the frame so had to become silver. So First sanding and the several coats of silver paint.

The frame number had to put in, but the metal plate was on the wrong site (LH), so I made a few strips from hardened alu. and put there the numbers in. One on a secret place and the other would come on top of the bulkhead on the usual place (RHS).

The suspension-arms went in without any trouble. The matching stops were a bid of a puzzle. Next to follow were the springs. I made the spring upraters from the heavy rubber bumber of the Acadyana and fit them. To my surprise the springs did not fit the cups. Apparently the springs of an Acadyana has a larger OD (123,5 mm; ID 89 mm). This was the first of many challenges (This adds to the FUN factor) but I did not now that at that time. So off went the cups and I made them to fit the springs. And there comes the next challenge, how to weld them on a square pipe, to thin for me to weld, so I welded them on a thicker plate and bolted them on the frame with a backing plate.

spring hanger

The whole thing did not satisfy me at all, especially the back spring. The forces that come free with the spring action plus the weight of the larger spring that put the point of impact of the spring action further downwards and so put a (biger) twisting momentum on the diagonal frame member. Certainly if you remember the forum about story's of loose rivets in that place.

My solution was a supportstrip from the cup to the backing plate plus a strip between the cups ( the last strip only on the right hand site). The next thing was to get hold of a 2CV petrol tank, the Acadyane had the metal petrol tank on the left side, I found one in a scrapyard with a transmitter. After the assembling of that came the brake line and then I could finely go to the floorpanels. Folding and trying to fit and if it did, riveting in place. Hurrah progress.

luggage space

The luggage place was a struggle because I wanted the places next to the wheel useble. A lot of thinking, drawing, making moulds, fitting and thanks to the forum the welding for the extra bracing of the safety belts. And again a lot of rivets ( mostly 25 mm spacing, otherwise an equaly spacing close to that). Thanks to the forum an idea for a sunk filler-cap and extra luggage door on the right hand side.

recessed filler cap
luggage space
luggage space
Moto Guzzi engine and gearbox

Next the marriage of gearbox and the 1100 Moto. Guzzi, a lot of fiddly work. The starter ring came very easily off but on to the new flywheel it was a nightmare, whatever I tried, it did not work, so in the end I had to go to a professional. He used an oxyacetylene torch till it became red hot and put it on the new flywheel -- it did fit.

So the engine and gearbox went in then I could do. the drive shafts, brakes and locate the place for the clutch, battery, horn, fuse box and so on.

seats

In went the upper bulkhead and glove box to be followed by the dash. The electrical wires from the tail went in, pedal assembly, clutch cable, brake plus fluent, choke and the cables for the carburetors ( DEll ORTO 38 ). I was glad that I did not fit the front leftside panel. Next came the wires from the steering column, the headlamps and sidelamps. At that time I was fed up with this backbreaking fiddling that I went to making the seats, an welcome change and an challenge also. I was so pleased with the outcome that made the inner sideboards in an afterthought. The wooden handrails on the rear top were next- a lot of (7) layers of varnish. The seat-belts brought me back to the thinks that I dreaded most; The electrical system.

I informed myself with several drawings, 2CV, Acadyana, Moto Guzzi, Burton and others. I bought 7 meter of trailer cable, striped them and did my own thing. I like those colors- easy to follow. In the end It worked.

The side-panels went in and then it became clear that there was not enough space between the panel and the steering wheel. Iff I was to drive this way I would do that in the end without my fingers. Disapointment- again, bud thats what building a Pembleton is about; sometimes 3 steps forward and 2 backwards, disassemble, problem solving and assemble again. After the virtually 2 steps backwards it took me , mostly a few days till an week , to start again. So back to the drawing-board and after 3 cardboard and 2 alu. dummy's, and of course several moulds, I made the final arch of 1,5 mm alu. instead of 1,2 mm. because you tend to use your hands to support yourself while getting in or out. The hole arch was finished with 10 mm alu pipe which I saw halfway open along and put it over the inside end. I did the same with the finish of the bonnet, the undersides of the sidepanels, cockpit and the end of the rear top. On underside of the side panels they got a square strip ( 15 x15 mm ) on the inside as well. The advantage would be a straiter panel and some resistance to deforming.

I didn't use the balance-pipe between the two exhaust-pipes because it became to close to the starter-motor and there was no room for a decent heat shield. Maybe if I see the solutions of others.......

Buggati blue

I do like the french light-blue color as Bugatti used it, so next where several coats of primer and 3 coats of that color. At last came the mirrors, wooden armrests, the heat-shields and the carpeting.

For the adjustment of the ignition ( Silent Hektic ) and carburetors I went to the TLM, a Moto Guzzi specialist, who did that for me. As an extra I made two flying horses in 3 mm alu. to represent the name PEGASUS. I did not fit them yet because the 2.5 mm rule.

spare wheel cover

So it is now 2016 and ready to go to England for registration. If that prove to be sucsesfull, I have still a list things to be done: Wooden dash, new lenses for the headlamps, MMB gauges, get rid of the "wings" on the mudguards and painting them and of course a detachable steering-wheel.

But that will be another story.

Paul


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