Pembleton enthusiasts forum - website: www.thepembleton.org.uk

We're an informal group sharing a common interest in this Citroen 2CV based car. People organise various activities with the main objective of having fun! Do look at our website for more information.
It is currently Wed Mar 20, 2019 3:36 pm

All times are UTC


Forum rules


Please click here to view the forum rules



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 21 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:00 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:45 pm
Posts: 226
Location: Earlston, Scottish Borders
I'm definitely going to paint my car, but my ability is limited to rattle can spray painted repairs on cars and painting houses. The logic being that the roads are just too salty up here and I hate polishing!

I'm just wondering what experience there is out there in the wider community of people painting their machines, whether by hand or spray painting, DIY or paid for? The sort of things that are going round and round in my head are challenges posed by dome headed rivets (creating runs and complicating sanding), matt finishes versus glossier finishes, light versus dark colours (revealing lack of expertise!). Enamel versus cellulose etc? Any thoughts gratefully received :)

Ade


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:01 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:50 pm
Posts: 2272
Location: N.Yorks
In the vintage world the Craftmaster range seems to be a favourite. Rivet heads will be a problem but Tom is yer man to speak to about that.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:16 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:37 am
Posts: 1861
Location: North Norfolk
Ade,
It's yet another of those factors in a Pembleton build - in isolation, one satisfactory method is good. Several stages on, that same method creates potential difficulties. Dome-headed rivets as you say, are potential "runs" starters. Mist - coat layers, sprayed on can overcome this, but then the precision and symmetry of the rivet lines IMHO is part of the charm of a well-built Pembleton? The late Peter Gibbs would have none of this - having completed his panelling, he then drilled out pop rivets and replaced then with solid, hand-set rivets - and then mirror polished the cars!

As Duncan says, brush-painted vintage cars using enamel is still popular. Have a look at Richard Scaldwell's GN/JAP - although it looks like an original, patinated Edwardian car, it's a recent recreation. Whilst he understandably wouldn't give me too many details of exactly how the finish was achieved, I know that "mist coats" of faint black were sprayed on, using masking, then sealed with a blending lacquer. The effect is an "oily rag" finish, which doesn't wear or wash off. I have photos if needed.

_________________
It's a 2CV Jim, but not as we know it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:44 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:13 am
Posts: 590
Ade

Give RS bike paints a call

They mix and make motorcycle paints of all ages and types in aerosols

They can advise you what will and wont work on aluminium, and unless the regulations have changed can provide cellulose as well as modern stuff

Ive had paint from them for new and old bikes and all economical and easy to use

A few years ago i had a load of cans made to match for the interior of our vw t2 camper

If you want a modern paint but old look a mix of gloss and satin lacquer gives a more muted finish

You could give the bare finish a try, i simply use a scotchbrite type pad and duck oil every 6 months or so - no polishing needed

Colin


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:26 am
Posts: 11
My brookland was Brgreen brush painted when i bought it and it is quasi new.

I like and hope to obtain old réal patina but not fake patina ........ so ,I have polished with abrasive sheat each head of rivets to obtain an aluminium head , after that , I have polished the paint and rivets with rotative polisher and the more abravise polish that I can …. the résult isn't too bad :mrgreen:

Cordialement


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:41 pm
Posts: 1570
Location: Edinburgh Scotland
Rivet runs can be avoided by building up thin coats and avoiding them when flatting the paint for the next coat. I am using Craftsmaster paints. Why not call in, I am currently painting mine!

Tom

_________________
Image
Chassis # 181 "Snotamog"
LWB Grasshopper SS
750 Guzzi


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:40 pm
Posts: 284
Location: Malvern
Colin-gser wrote:
You could give the bare finish a try, i simply use a scotchbrite type pad and duck oil every 6 months or so - no polishing needed

Colin


That is by far the best look for the least amount of input IMHO and your car will develop a patina that polishing or painting will ever achieve but each to their own :D

It's the very thing that makes each builders car something unique and characterful.

Rob


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:31 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:33 pm
Posts: 356
Location: Beverley
Hi Ade,

Good to hear you're getting on well,

My first was painted and this one will be too. I used rattle can aluminium etch primer over the panels after they had been keyed with the scotchbrite style pads, and then....

Left it to my dad.

But what I do know is that we painted it in my old cow shed and just put some sheeting up to stop the dust.

He started with plenty of undercoat then some leftover (lavinder?!) paint to build it up, followed by the top coat.

We used cellulose (I had landrover Keswick Green mixed up) and the finish was excellent straight from the gun - we didn't even flat it back. I wouldn't use a 2pack as the finish is quite 'modern'.

The only mistake made was painting over the bonnet hinge - but that was user error!

I appreciate that I'm lucky as I have someone who can paint, but I did the prep and the actual spraying took 2 days max.

Cost of the paints was £120 delivered.


Best,

Phil


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:36 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2014 3:58 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Gotland Sweden
I decided early htat I wanted my car painted. I choose color recipie from the 1930,ies. It is British Green Dark. I had a professional paintshop to do the job and they first put a layer on to etch the aluminium and after the paint layers they put on a self healing clear layer. This was done in 2005 and I have had the car on the road and driven almost 20000 km without any problems with the paint. It still looks as new and I think it suits the car very well.
Bertil

_________________
Bertil on Gotland


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Painting the body
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:37 am
Posts: 1861
Location: North Norfolk
Phil,
Over the years, with sundry cars I have used brushing cellulose (before the days of "rattle cans"), coach enamel and then (in the 60s) sprayed cellulose, which gave the most immediate, controllable finish. That was, however, at the expense of susceptibility to abrasion damage (then called "gravel rash") - 2 pack finishes are more durable, but need controlled drying conditions and are prone to collect airborne dust,before cured

Staring from scratch (or in my case "non-scratch") I have protected the panel surfaces of my car and complete, flatted and polished the end product. In the fullness of (lots of) time, my car may become patinated. Scouring panels accelerates patination in the same manner as a summer, linen suit - left alone, it looks as if it's been slept in.

Each to his own.

_________________
It's a 2CV Jim, but not as we know it.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 21 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group